May 17, 2020
Low tide was just before 7:00, at nearly 0.0 feet and high tide was around 1:40, topping out at 1.22 feet, a decent swing by Kauaʻi standards. The NW and SSW swells are still going strong; the winds are still light but trending up.
I met M– in front of Acid Drop, getting there 10 minutes before he arrived at 8:00 this morning. The crowds were much lighter than Friday, with just four guys out at Acids and six over at Centers. I watched the waves roll through while I waited. The sets looked fun enough and the crowd was small enough to make me want to take my first paddle out at Acids this season. M– wasn’t feeling it. He was worried the crowd would grow exponentially, which is definitely possible down here, and the wave looked a bit warbly, not its clean normal self. I think the swell direction was causing a weird close out section in front of the peak. We opted to check out Mahaʻulepu, though I knew the south swell wouldn’t be there.
We saw a few waves roll through and thought there would be enough for a fun session, so we headed down the hill. I checked in with the local guy who had his fishing line out right where I like to walk across the reef. No problems. M– went around the long way, paddling his new 6ʻ baby blue single fin through the sandy section. Those few waves we saw from up the hill were a bit of a mirage as the truth was much slower and smaller. We mostly talked and paddled around, finding a handful of waves over the two hours. One or two came in at chest high, but there were many more turtles near us than waves today. As I have said before, it is fun to surf, to be in the water, to paddle, to feel the current, the wind, to catch whatever comes by and to surf the wave we are on, not the wave we wish for.
After a miscommunication with Erin about meeting up or coming home or something else, the girls, Erin, and I headed out to spend the afternoon at North Aliomanu. We found a little mini cove tucked away on the north side of the beach. From the main stretch of sand, it looks like just giant black boulders, but one step over the first boulder, and all we see is a beautiful mix of yellow sand and perfect sitting and lounging rocks, with a few wonderful trees sharing ample shade with the shore.
The water out front of this little spot is deep, with large pockets of sand and awesome coral heads and canyons and caverns in a vibrant reef. We all enjoyed being able to swim, the girls especially. They put their goggles on and went diving and swimming and exploring, letting the currents take them way out. Erin and I followed them on body boards and we all wound our way back to nearshore.
While Erin, Evora, and Violet took a break to read and snack, I paddled way out and to the north, exploring the shallow outside reef and the sketchy wave I had seen. I quickly discovered that the spot was too shallow for riding, not even deep enough for my bodyboard, but I caught a little mini swell back in to the deep section. I also found a tiny peeler that pulled right across the inside shallows into the boulders and sand.