October 5-October 11, 2020

October 9, 2020

The northwest swell has faded, but the buoys are still showing some decent south and east swell with light winds. The only problem today was that the tide was wrong; well not wrong. How can tide be wrong? My selfish timeline wanted low tide to match my schedule, not the moon’s schedule. Low tide was well before sunrise, topping out around 1.7 feet at 10:30, and then it stayed pretty high all afternoon. I decided to head to Mahaʻulepu despite the high tide, thinking I could use the wavestorm if nothing else, but I decided to check Acid Dropʻs at the last second.

The water was beautiful, silver gray and glassy, and the waves were lunging up off the ledge, blue and white wedges peeling down the reef. I saw one guy out at AD, that guy that is always there, either in his truck or in the line up, and I waited just long enough to see him pull in to an overhead barrel before I grabbed my board and locked the truck.

I paddled out, noting that the tide was already so high that I could not easily jump off the ledge at the shore, feeling some nerves as I replayed the wave I saw. The swell wasnʻt huge or even close to the largest I have surfed, but this is Acid Drops and anything overhead can be difficult to handle.

Shortly after I made it out, an older grandpa joined us, and we all paddled around, talked aimlessly about how the tide was too high but the day was perfect anyway. I found a few amazing waves that lined up from the main peak past the bend and to the inside section and even ducked under the lip once or twice. Eventually, I gave up on the outside peak as the tide continued to climb. The waves were fat out there now, difficult to paddle into without a longer board. I moved wide and inside, looking for the ones that jacked up off the other section of reef. These waves ended up being even more fun, holding their shape and speed for longer.

After a while the crowd swelled to 6, with 2 of the new guys on wavestorms. I milked the session until after everyone else had given up and I did not regret my tired arms.

October 10, 2020

Body surfing with the family at Kealia again. So crowded down at Landings, trucks and tents and thongs all over. Found some fun shore break whompers. The barrels headed to the left lit up with the setting sun.

***

A colleague has been posting about god. And how he is sad that people live inferior lives to his life enriched by god. And I float in the water and I marvel at what he doesn’t know about the richness of my life, of the world, or what he is too afraid to know about people.

A place I walk to with my family

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