Jonathon Medeiros

January 29-January 31, 2020

January 30 2020 The crescent moon has been waxing all week, hanging low in the dusky sky, Venus shining brightly just below it. The second low tide today was shortly before 2:00 p.m. and bottomed out at .18 ft. We didn’t make it into the water until 3:00, riding the waves as we rode theContinue reading “January 29-January 31, 2020”

January 22-January 28, 2020

January 26, 2020 This has been a week of epic surf conditions but no time for surf, at least for me. Anchors was going off all week, but all I could do was glance makai as I drove by. The little lefts inside the rocky cove below the Kealia lookout were peeling like dream wavesContinue reading “January 22-January 28, 2020”

January 15-January 21, 2020

January 19, 2020 We were on Hawaiʻi island this long weekend, as a birthday present for the girls. I knew I probably wouldn’t be able to find time to really surf with how packed our days were, not to mention that I had no board. Nearly every time I looked at the sea, which wasContinue reading “January 15-January 21, 2020”

January 8-January 14, 2020

January 10, 2020 The wind has been howling for most of the week, well beyond the normal trades. The east side is huge, wild, unsurfable in most spots. Kealia, the salt encrustation living up to its name, is all the shades of blue from white to black, every breath is filled with salt air andContinue reading “January 8-January 14, 2020”

January 1-January 7, 2020

“I hope I don’t sound too insane when I say there is darkness all around us…” This time of year was once unnamed, an empty space between the end of the beginnings of winter and the first hints of spring. January gets its name from the Romans, related to Janus, the god that guarded doors,Continue reading “January 1-January 7, 2020”

This Week, Last Year

On January 1, 2020, I began writing every time I partook in my favorite outdoor activity: surfing. In my mind, surfing simply means letting water move you, so I wrote whenever I spent time letting water move my body and quiet my mind. This project began as little more than a writing exercise but grewContinue reading “This Week, Last Year”