March 7-March 13, 2020

March 10, 2020 Today is just past the full moon, the tide is high around 3:30 in the afternoon, over 1.5 feet. The winds lightened up again and the sky stayed clear most of the day. By the time I was leaving school, the mountains had been obscured by those towering grey-black clouds that haveContinue reading “March 7-March 13, 2020”

February 22-February 28, 2020

February 23, 2020 7:10 am M– needed to surf before dawn today and C– couldn’t head out until after 10:00, so I made my own way down the east side. The wind was light, almost nonexistent, no clouds anywhere. Waiʻaleʻale was crystal clear looming over us all, the morning sun lighting up each of itsContinue reading “February 22-February 28, 2020”

February 1-February 7, 2020

*** When the Romans’ year was divided into 10, the winter existed of course but was blank, an unmarked span of time, too dark to think about, too cold to see on a calendar. This time of the year was just blank space, outside their doors, in the fields, on the calendars, time to beContinue reading “February 1-February 7, 2020”

January 22-January 28, 2020

January 26, 2020 This has been a week of epic surf conditions but no time for surf, at least for me. Anchors was going off all week, but all I could do was glance makai as I drove by. The little lefts inside the rocky cove below the Kealia lookout were peeling like dream wavesContinue reading “January 22-January 28, 2020”