January 19, 2020 We were on Hawaiʻi island this long weekend, as a birthday present for the girls. I knew I probably wouldn’t be able to find time to really surf with how packed our days were, not to mention that I had no board. Nearly every time I looked at the sea, which wasContinue reading “January 15-January 21, 2020”
Category Archives: Uncategorized
January 8-January 14, 2020
January 10, 2020 The wind has been howling for most of the week, well beyond the normal trades. The east side is huge, wild, unsurfable in most spots. Kealia, the salt encrustation living up to its name, is all the shades of blue from white to black, every breath is filled with salt air andContinue reading “January 8-January 14, 2020”
January 1-January 7, 2020
“I hope I don’t sound too insane when I say there is darkness all around us…” This time of year was once unnamed, an empty space between the end of the beginnings of winter and the first hints of spring. January gets its name from the Romans, related to Janus, the god that guarded doors,Continue reading “January 1-January 7, 2020”
This Week, Last Year
On January 1, 2020, I began writing every time I partook in my favorite outdoor activity: surfing. In my mind, surfing simply means letting water move you, so I wrote whenever I spent time letting water move my body and quiet my mind. This project began as little more than a writing exercise but grewContinue reading “This Week, Last Year”
Jonathon Medeiros, Writer Teacher Learner 